Alaska humbles even the most seasoned traveler.
Towering glaciers crack and crash into blue-green water, bald eagles snatch salmon from mirror-like fjords, and snow-capped peaks rise to endless skies.
Alaska is a land where whales breach beside your boat, huskies race across ancient ice, and primeval forests guard secrets older than time.
Every moment in Alaska feels wild yet profoundly peaceful, as nature takes center stage and silence is more powerful than sound.
I am writing today from Silversea's luxurious Silver Moon, en route from Seward to Vancouver on a 7-night Alaska cruise. Silversea is to cruising what Alaska is to natural beauty -- unbeaten.
I arrived in Anchorage three days before the cruise and eased into the Alaska experience at Alyeska Lodge, a 40-minute drive from the airport. Alyeska is Alaska's best and most comprehensive ski resort, cozy and comfortable with good restaurants and hiking trails and a tram that leads to jaw-dropping panoramas.
There's no skiing here at this time of year, but ski resorts make great summer destinations too and I wanted to get as far into nature as possible. With more than 18 hours of sunlight each day of my stay, there was plenty of time to explore.
One highlight was a visit to the nearby Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, where rescued bears, moose, wolves and bison are among the residents. A short drive later, I found myself at Portage Lake, where chunks of glacial ice float in milky-blue water.
Just downhill from Alyeska, I explored the quaint village of Girdwood, enjoying raw oysters and king crab legs at Basecamp Restaurant. I also had time to visit a couple of Anchorage's finest dining establishments, Ginger and Simon & Seafort's. Two thumbs up!
Alas, all great pre-cruise visits must come to an end, and I returned to Anchorage to board a motorcoach for Seward, the embarkation port, a 2 ½ hour drive that many consider to be among the most beautiful on earth.
The town of Seward was named after William H. Seward, the U.S. Secretary of State under Presidents Abraham Lincoln and Andrew Johnson.
William H. Seward was the driving force behind the purchase of Alaska from Russia in 1867. Though the $7.2 million deal (two cents per acre) was ridiculed at the time as "Seward's Folly," it later proved to be a visionary move, as Alaska became a source of vast natural resources and strategic importance.
Following the Seward Highway from Anchorage, the road winds along Turnagain Arm, a stunning stretch of waterway framed by green mountains crowned with snow. If you're lucky, you might spot Dall sheep perched on a rocky ledge or a beluga whale in the silvery water.
The tidal range in Turnagain Arm is among the largest in North America, with water levels changing as much as 30 to 40 feet between high and low tide. This is one of only 60 places in the entire world where bore tides can be found.
A bore tide is a rare and dramatic natural event in which a single, powerful wave surges up a narrow inlet against the outgoing tide. It can reach heights of 6-10 feet and travel at 10-15 mph, stretching for miles. As it rolls in, it creates a deep, rushing roar, drawing surfers, kayakers, and onlookers alike.
Leaving the coast behind, our motorcoach rolled through fertile valleys, passing snow-fed rivers and lakes and deep forests. Waterfalls spilled down mountainsides, and every bend revealed another postcard-perfect view. The journey between Anchorage and Seward is not just a drive -- it's an experience that stirs the imagination about what is to come.
And suddenly, there it was, the Silver Moon, gleaming white in Seward's colorful harbor.
Check-in at the Silver Moon was so well organized, I almost wanted to do it again.
Mere moments after stepping down from the motorcoach at the pier, I was standing in the Dolce Vita lounge with a welcome-aboard glass of champagne. The ship's main bar is elegant and relaxed, perfect for a pre- or post-dinner drink or socializing throughout the day.
The Silver Moon is a 6-star vessel, elegant and intimate, carrying a maximum of 596 passengers with spacious, all-suite accommodations. There are eight restaurants and five lounges and bars, a full-service spa, well-equipped fitness center, theater, and a small casino.
With a fleet of 12 ships, Silversea is the ultra-luxury and expedition brand owned by Royal Caribbean Group, which also owns Royal Caribbean and Celebrity. Boasting a nearly 1:1 guest-to-staff ratio, service feels intuitive and seamless -- your butler remembers your favorite drink, and waiters greet you by name. Suites are spacious and elegant -- most with private verandas -- and the atmosphere is relaxed yet sophisticated.
Dining is world-class, with globally inspired menus and fresh, regional ingredients. Enrichment programs, like the S.A.L.T. (Sea and Land Taste) initiative, immerse guests in local culture and cuisine. Onboard, lounges are serene, the spa indulgent, and every interaction warm and polished.
Small ship size means access to off-the-beaten-path ports, often with fewer crowds and deeper exploration. Whether you're watching glaciers calve or sipping champagne at sunset, Silversea delivers luxury that feels personal, thoughtful, and quietly extraordinary.
We met our butler and got a glimpse of the many ways she planned to pamper us on our voyage. We respectfully declined her offer to unpack our bags before setting out to explore the ship from bow to stern.
At 7:00 pm, we slipped gently from the dock into Resurrection Bay, en route to the Gulf of Alaska and Hubbard Glacier. The main event was about to unfold.
To see itineraries and prices for the Silver Moon, please click here.
To see all Silversea cruises that visit Alaska, please click here.
For more about Silversea and a list of all their ships, please click here.
Sincerely,
Alan Fox
Executive Chairman
Vacations To Go
Related newsletters:
Silver Moon, Part 2: Sights and Sounds of Alaska
Silver Moon, Part 3: Salmon Fishing and Post-Cruise Vancouver